There's nothing more quintessentially Dutch as the national flower of The Netherlands - the tulip. The best place to see these iconic blooms is Keukenhof, also known as "The Garden of Europe", in South Holland during mid April when miles of tulips burst into a riot of colour to welcome the arrival of Spring. Keukenhof may be saturated with visitors when they open from mid March to mid May. But with 7 million bulbs - tulips, hyacinths, and roses just to name a few - planted over 79 acres of park there are enough flowers for everyone to stop and smell. Best head there early to avoid the crowds: arrive no later than 9:00am for a somewhat tranquil experience in one of world's largest flower gardens.
I nipped over to Amsterdam on Wednesday to catch up with my mom and aunt who are in town for the tulip festival. Ever the style icon, mummy brought with her the most fitting accessory to the land of tulips: this gorgeous nude satchel embellished with flowers - the 'Fashion Show Dot Com' from Fendi Flowerland Spring/Summer 2016. The bag was so fresh off the racks that I was the one who lifted it from her suitcase, unwrapped it, and declared the handbag mine for a day. I can't think of a better occasion to carry it than for a visit to Keukenhof.
"Feminine but never too girly"
Just the collection then, for the tomboy named after a flower but whose 'delicate and becoming' qualities are merely skin deep. In reality I'm awkward, clumsy, and far more childish than the playful nature of Flowerland. A rose by any other name may smell as sweet, but this jasmine would be better suited to the name 'butt-mushroom'.
On a final note: I couldn't be happier for all the vibrant colours of Keukenhof flower gardens, which I hope comes across in these photos as a departure from the less saturated pictures in my recent blog posts. Lord knows with everything that has happened lately, I could certainly use more colour and joy in my life. I pray now that spring is here, the dark clouds that have haunted me for so long will clear to let the sunshine through again. x
April 01, 2016
A LOT O' SCOT: PART 2 of EDINBURGH EXPRESS: WHAT TO SEE & DO IN 48 HOURS
Rested and ready? Excellent. Despair not at the impending end of your Edinburgh trip for there's time still to see many of the city's sights including another hilly ascent, shopping, restaurants and pubs, and then some. If you were astute enough to time your flight/train back for the afternoon, you'll even have ample time for wildlife-spotting before the end of your city break. Incroyable, no? I mean business when I say 'Edinburgh Express'. So strap on your boots, grab that camera, bag some pipes, and let's get crackin'...
March 25, 2016
GREAT SCOT! Make like a Flying Scotsman and EXPERIENCE EDINBURGH IN 48 HOURS
Scotland may seem like a landscape of mountains and magic - monsters in the Lochs and Hogwarts castle, for starts - but don't let the mystique surrounding the country intimidate you. Unless you're heading for the Highlands - in which case, pack your walking stick, hip flask, and buddy up with Hagrid. Scotland's cities are very much accessible by foot and their sights easily reached even for prissy urbanites such as yours truly. Case in point: Edinburgh. Though Scotland's capital may be built on different levels - giving this UNESCO site the dreamy appearance of a floating city of clouds - I managed to visit most of Edinburgh's great attractions in just over two days, with little difficulty. That said, all the hill-ascending, close-climbing, and stair-stomping does burn off a great deal of calories - all the better to stuff one's haggis hole with no post-holiday overindulgence-regret-self-flagellation.
March 20, 2016
Eating-burgh: 7 Places to Eat, Drink, & Be Merry in Edinburgh, Scotland
Fuel me up, buttercup. Though our trip in Edinburgh be short, this magical capital offered a myriad of sights and thanks to its many slopes all my pavement pounding meant that I was free to sample the city’s smorgasbord of noms. And nom I did - from deep fried Mars Bars, gourmet Scottish dishes, and copious amounts of Scotch. Follow me, on my short, sweet, but no less illustrious culinary tour of Edinburgh…
March 17, 2016
A Stylish Introduction to Scottish Cuisine: My first haggis at North Bridge Brasserie, Edinburgh
First and last impressions, the opening and the closing act - those are the moments you take away from an event, the souvenirs from a story. The rest is just filler, as some comedians would say. How fortuitous that the standout moments of dinner at North Bridge Brasserie were the alpha and the omega, those winning dishes certainly made for a meal to remember!
March 14, 2016
STOP THE PRESS! From history to luxury: a stylish stay at the former headquarters of The Scotsman newspaper
I wanted to see how beautiful and magical Scotland is and thought I'd start with Edinburgh. That’s how I found myself standing in the wood panelled lobby of The Scotsman Hotel where I was welcomed by the tantalising smoky scent of the coal fire and beaming staff with the most charming accents. As far as first impressions went, I felt right at home in the capital of Scotland. The Scotsman Hotel was no trivial choice - I chose The Scotsman for three very compelling reasons - one: its unbeatable location -positioned on the North Bridge with The Royal Mile on its doorstep, two: the views - it’s the only luxury hotel in the city with views of Edinburgh Castle, the Firth of Forth, Leith, Princes Street and Calton Hill, and three: the history - the century-old building was once The Scotsman newspaper’s offices, with subtle allusions to its heritage found in details like the crossword motif on the hotel teacups. That The Scotsman looked like Hogwarts didn’t hurt, either.
March 13, 2016
Treehouse fantasies, Revisited:
The Simple Life Amidst the Rainforest Treetops of JANDA BAIK, PAHANG
Idaman (Malay) - n. ideal, craving, desire.
How wonderfully fitting, as Idaman House was my family's choice for a weekend of fresh forest air. The Malay kampong (village) of Janda Baik - literally 'the good widow' - is, according to local folklore, named after a kindly widow of local folklore who tended to a wounded mercenary passing through the town. My party of ten enjoyed similar hospitality - a 5-bedroom villa in the mountains tended to by a staff of three who took care of our every need, leaving us free to relax and enjoy our verdant surroundings.
February 22, 2016
What to eat & drink in Ipoh that isn't chicken rice or Old Town coffee
While I'm all about the adage "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" - or rather "I'll fix it if I only need to use duct tape or WD40" - I am not at all adverse to introducing crazy newfangled ideas to areas where the classics have already stood the test of time. So, in the spirit of the 'something old, something new' of Ipoh Old Town's new retro revival and the 'modern treehouse meets historical house of decadence' of Sekeping Kong Heng, I'm rounding up my Ipoh blog posts with five alternative eateries beyond the city's already-established street food and hawker stalls.
February 20, 2016
Treehouse Fantasies: Indulging my Inner Peter Pan at SEKEPING KONG HENG, IPOH
I've slept around. Literally - I've stayed at 5* hotels, country piles, cruise ships, Airbnb's, and then some. I'd rate myself reasonably well-travelled, even so my recent trip to Ipoh ticked off a first for me - sleeping in a treehouse. A treehouse! You may already know about my dinner party childhood dream plans in progress but what kidult doesn't still nurture Neverland fantasies? Ever since Sekeping Retreats burst onto the Malaysian scene with their dreamy 'back to nature' getaways, sleeping al fresco has never been so en vogue, an especially commendable accomplishment given the tropical climate with all its nuisances.
Sekeping Kong Heng sealed the deal for me when I contemplated making a trip to Ipoh. The latest addition to the Sekeping family is a glass and concrete treehouse in newly rejuvenated Kong Heng Square, the heart of Ipoh Old Town's revival. The 3 storey neo-classical building was once a hostel for theatre performers who performed in the adjacent theatre building that was burnt down in the 50s. True to the spirit of celebrating Ipoh's rich heritage and history, Sekeping Kong Heng has preserved as much of the character of the existing building as possible - evident in details like reclaimed colonial shop windows used for the rooms. The result is edgy and hip yet respectful to its surroundings' history: an exhibit you live and breathe - from the heady aroma of white coffee to the cacophony of Cantonese banter between hawkers - in a real Old Town setting.
February 12, 2016
Something Old, Something New: Ipoh Old Town, revived with vintage flairI chanced upon the most remarkable sight last November when I was in Ipoh to review The Haven. In its heyday, the North Malaysian capital of Perak was an icon of the riches of the Empire. But when the mining boom ended, its star faded as the Town Built On Tin became a shell of its former self. All that remained of Ipoh were decaying colonial mansions and shophouses whose weathered bodies whispered of its glory days of British Malaya. As my father did, many of the city’s young emigrated to Kuala Lumpur for bigger prospects, leaving behind a sleepy hollow seemingly inhabited mostly by those old enough to remember pre-independence Malaysia. Ipoh, whose star once shone as brightly as Singapore, was now an Adele lyric: “that town where nothing really happened”. Or so I had remembered from my family’s annual Chinese New Year returns to my paternal hometown - it was usually a stopover between Kuala Lumpur and Penang, albeit one boasting some of the best Malaysian culinary fare. Although in recent years Ipoh has become a family-friendly destination for wellness and relaxation, it was not a place I associated with a burgeoning arts and culture scene, and certainly not with the trendy young. I was about to proven so satisfyingly wrong.  |
Behind the facade of the old-school optical shop on the right is quirky cafe-restaurant Missing Marbles, just one of Ipoh's many surprises. |
Before returning to Kuala Lumpur, a friend and Ipoh local brought me to one of her favourite lunch spots - Burps & Giggles on Jalan Sultan Yusoff . I was already delighted by the cafe’s eclectic decor and vintage vibe, but then I was ushered through an alleyway into Kong Heng Square where I was met with the most astonishing juxtaposition of ‘old old’ and ‘new old’.
Dilapidated colonial buildings reclaimed by vines framed the square with rows of shops whose colourful, homemade aesthetic wouldn’t look out of place on Pinterest. A steel and glass treehouse - the local branch (haha) of achingly-cool Sekeping boutique hotel chains - stand side-by-side with the soaring structure of Plan B, one of entrepreneur Benjamin Yong’s fashionable "Aussie meets New York deli"-inspired restaurants. Hordes of college-age young ‘uns who look right at home in trendy K.L were busy posing among the faded older buildings, snapping #ootd photos for their Instagram.
Ipoh had made a comeback, and it was cooler than ever. Dare I even say, it may even be hipper than…Kuala Lumpur?
From the moment I gazed upward at the urban treehouse that is Sekeping Kong Heng I knew that I, an antique afficionado, would just love the Ipoh's 'new old' vintage spirit. I booked a room at Sekeping Kong Heng which would later be my base for exploring and acquainting myself with the gently-regenerated Ipoh.
Antiques make for the perfect decor in the rustic interiors of restaurants Missing Marbles and Burps & Giggles.
'Love locks' for RM15 (£2) a pop, the proceeds of which are donated to charity.
Even though Plan B restaurant looks relatively polished, its presence isn't at all jarring in Kong Heng Square. No doubt thanks to its adjacence to Sekeping Kong Heng, whose industrial-chic appearance lends a cohesiveness to Plan B.
If you prefer local drinks over Australian coffees, there's always nearby Bits & Bobs for a classic gula melaka shake.
A blast from the not-so-distant past: 'Uncle Thiru', Ipoh's star barber returns from retirement. The original Star Hair Dressing Salon (since 1927!) is now 'New Star Salon'. A single-chair barbershop in an air-conditioned glass box in Kong Heng Square, New Star Salon is like an exhibit - a slice of Ipoh history that's not just beautifully-preserved but very much alive.
It's obvious that the heart of Ipoh's revival is Kong Heng Square. Here, a delicate sensitivity to the history of Ipoh is evident - whereas crumbling colonial-era buildings elsewhere would have long been bulldozed to make way for glossy shopping malls, here the ravages of time are not only lovingly restored but proudly shown off. Wear and tear is fashionable, rust is patina. Reaching vines are not razed to make way for steel, but rather embraced as a natural addition to the townscape. What was once seen as dated and a relic of the past is now celebrated as nostalgic, retro, and vintage.
Kong Heng Square is the perfect example of how a quiet, faded town is revived into the cool new destination thanks to creativity without compromising its history. Even more so, its delightfully retro nod to heritage is the very spirit of vintage, is it not? Myself, I learnt a lesson or two about not judging a book by its slightly dog-eared cover.
I will be blogging about Sekeping Kong Heng and vintage-inspired Ipoh eateries next, so stay tuned!
February 10, 2016
BRUSSELS EXPRESS: Dispatches from the Land of Tintin, Chocolate, and Waffles
AN ABRIDGED PHOTO DIARY, OF SORTS
It's amazing how much you can see and do with 24 hours in Brussels (namely, how many carbs I can cram into my waffle-hole) when your nose isn't buried in your smartphone while you frantically Google "How to make the most out of Brussels: So many things to see (eat), so little time". If there are 3 things I can take away from my city break they are: a) Brussels is far more civilised and empty on the weekends (the day-trippers will have departed for Paris by Friday, which sees hotel rates drop), b) despite the current climate, Brussels has never been safer - the constant police and military presence makes the recently-unlocked down city the place to visit right now, and c) you can cover all the highlights of Brussels in a day, but there will never, ever, be enough room for all the waffles, frites, mussels, and chocolate. Oh the chocolate.
So, in the time-poor but experience-rich spirit that seems to be the zeitgeist of every city break-taking millenial, I've put together this blog post: a photo-diary slash city guide for all of you who want to hop aboard the Brussels Express. Passports at the ready...
PHOTOS 2 & 14 COURTESY OF THEIR ESTABLISHMENTS
January 27, 2016
"A very polished Polish address"
It's very unlike me to ⌘-C and ⌘-V the writing of others (in this case the humorous heteronym-ing by The Independant) but can you please blame the serious slick-factor of H15 Boutique for me being at a loss for words? You'd never peg this stylish 19th-century city pied-à-terre for a former Soviet embassy if not for the crest (now sans hammer and sickle) above the front door. Much like its Design Hotels sibling, Hotel Klaus K, this gem is small but seriously shiny, with each of its 46 rooms and suites individually designed to exude modern luxury and that feeling of 'home away from home...but glossier and with miraculous, mysterious self-cleaning ability'.
I stayed in one of three penthouses on the fifth floor, whose moan-inducing heaven of a four-poster bed made it that much harder to get out of bed each morning if not for the abundance of light streaming in from the wraparound balcony through the floor-to-ceiling windows (note to self: draw the blinds before bedtime). From the generous, snow-covered balcony I was granted a view of Warsaw's pleasingly-low cityscape, punctuated by Stalinist-meets-Art Deco monument that is the iconic Palace of Science and Culture. Funnily enough my favourite aspect of my Junior Suite wasn't the view nor the charming '70s vibe of the room but in fact the minimalism of the white-marble bathroom, because I'm a blogging cliché, don't you know?
H15 BOUTIQUE
January 13, 2016
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