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I quickly learnt that the mighty coastal winds - alizee, or taros in Berber - is what makes Essaouira unique and allows it to remain so. The fierce winds drive most beach-going tourists away, keeping the city uncrowded even in summer. However, the ‘Wind City of Africa’, attracts its own crowd - windsurfers from April to November, and visitors in the know who come in spring and autumn to enjoy Essaouira’s off-the-beaten-track allure.
Oh, there is plenty of allure. Dramatic waves lash and crash against the ramparts of the Medina. The beach bars (dotted with cobalt blue parasols, naturally) are the perfect place to while away an afternoon watching fishing nets being mended, kite surfers soar in the sky amongst the gulls, and traditional blue-tailed fishing boats being constructed in the port. Even within the walled Medina, the winds follow. Here, the sea breeze travels through the narrow streets, adding a salty tang to the heady aroma of the smogarsbord of spices and argan products for sale in the souks. It is as intoxicating as it is relaxing. The Medina of Essaouira was unlike any other I had visited in Morocco - not just for its ubiquitous accents of blue - cool, calm, and devoid of crowds. It made for an extremely pleasant and unharried browse of the many art galleries, shops, and stalls; where I could actually strike up conversations without feeling rushed or talked over. And then at noon, church bells tolled alongside the mosques’ call to prayer; reaffirming the feeling that Essaouira was a unique mariage of the best of Europe and North Africa.
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